Review: Zrno Bio Bistro, Zagreb Croatia

After the button-popping, belly-bursting, food-coma-inducing meal at Mundoaka Street Food in Zagreb, K and I both agreed that we needed to look for a healthier option for our next meal. As much as I loved pulled pork, it’s definitely not something you can have every day! Luckily, my Googlefu pulled up Zrno Bio Bistro as a restaurant that offered precisely what we were looking for – organic, local, natural food designed to nourish the body.

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Located in the rear courtyard of a building, it can be hard to miss the entrance of Zrno – we walked past it and halfway down the street before turning back. As soon as you enter, you begin to learn about their food philosophy through posters, prints, and vinyl decals on the walls. They promote their farm-to-table ethos, with the restaurant’s produce coming directly from the Zrno certified-organic farm located only an hour out of the city. They talk about ‘real food’ and about making the most of vegetables through eating, preserving and pickling while fresh. They talk about their vegan-friendly menu, which can also cater to those with other food intolerances (gluten-free, lactose-free).

Monkey Business Smoothie (coconut milk, rice milk, banana, dates and cashew nuts), 35 Croatian Kuna
Monkey Business Smoothie (coconut milk, rice milk, banana, dates and cashew nuts), 35 Croatian Kuna

Making the most of their lactose-free smoothie menu, I ordered a Monkey Business smoothie – one of the more conventional choices on the drinks menu as it didn’t use rarer ingredients like hemp oil or green magma! Instead, my smoothie was made of a blend of thick sweet coconut milk, thin rice milk, a banana, a handful of dates for sweetness, and cashew nuts as a nutty surprise. An absolutely delicious lactose-free smoothie full of good fats and protein – one I would happily make at home and serve as a healthier alternative to our usual Milo milkshakes!

Homemade Sourdough Bread, 16 Croatian Kuna
Homemade Sourdough Bread, 16 Croatian Kuna

I’m always a fan of homemade bread, so we ordered a side of their Homemade Sourdough Bread to share. Interestingly, they offered three different types of bread in this serving, with cuts from an aerated cob loaf, an extremely dense sandwich loaf, and a sesame-crusted loaf. I liked the dense sandwich loaf as I love super-dense and heavy bread, but K preferred the sesame seed-crusted loaf as it had a better aroma.

Garden Burger (vegetable patty on a chickpea pancake served with marinated zucchini, boiled broccoli and a lemon, olive oil and garlic dressing), 59 Croatian Kuna
Garden Burger (vegetable patty on a chickpea pancake served with marinated zucchini, boiled broccoli and a lemon, olive oil and garlic dressing), 59 Croatian Kuna

K ordered the Garden Burger, which really didn’t resemble what most people would think about as a burger – it was more like a ball of solid vegetable mash on a flat pancake made of chickpea flour. With a healthy serving of greens on the side, this meal ticked all the boxes as a healthy meal, incorporating more than enough vegetables and some protein in the chickpea pancake too.

He did find himself hungry sooner than usual after lunch, so it might be worth noting that this meal could do with a bit more protein to help satiate the average diner. Perhaps the addition of some lentils in the vegetable patty? It certainly doesn’t need any help in the taste department (hearty and a little bit sweet with the inclusion of carrots), but adding some protein bulk would help.

Sweet Potato Fries, 25 Croatian Kuna
Sweet Potato Fries, 25 Croatian Kuna

I insisted on sharing the Sweet Potato Fries, one of my favourite side dishes to order in a restaurant when it’s available. I almost stopped the waiter when he put this down on our table though, as it didn’t look like any sweet potato I was familiar with – what happened to its usual orange tone? Wikipedia has since informed me that there’s multiple shades of sweet potato, and the orange shade that we’re used to in Australia makes up 95% of our production. Regardless of colour though, these sweet potato chips were a delight – while not quite as crispy as some might prefer them, you couldn’t fault the sweet flavour of the fries.

Daily macroplate, 65 Croatian Kuna
Daily macroplate, 65 Croatian Kuna

I chose the Macroplate which changes daily but always complies with the ideals of the macrobiotic diet – wholegrains, vegetables, legumes, sea vegetables.  On the day that we went, the wholegrains were a mix of brown rice and quinoa, and that was coupled with roast sweet potato, coleslaw, boiled green leafy vegetables, and a healthy serving of a mildy-spiced dahl. While I found the greens quite plain, the dahl was a delight especially when mixed in with the slightly nutty rice and quinoa. Interestingly, almost half of the other diners also ordered the macroplate, so it must be the restaurant’s specialty!

Veiled Farm Girl Apple Cake topped with an oatmilk-chocolate cream, 28 Croatian Kuna
Veiled Farm Girl Apple Cake topped with an oatmilk-chocolate cream, 28 Croatian Kuna

We finished off our meal by sharing the Veiled Farm Girl Apple Cake, as it was one of the desserts that was specifically marked as being lactose-free, using oat milk instead of dairy milk. It wasn’t quite the cake that K expected, offering a jellied stewed apple base rather than a fluffy apple sponge as he’d been hoping for. I liked the texture of the dessert though, as it reminded me of eating a Chinese-style jelly dessert like aiyu jelly. The oatmilk jelly helped to soften the sweetness of the apple jelly, while the chocolate sauce drizzled on top just amplified it again. Some will find the texture of this dessert challenging, but I liked it very much!

Zrno Bio Bistro is one of those rare finds – a vegan-friendly restaurant in a part of the world that tends to feature meat or seafood in one shape or another in most meals. Like our visit to Konoba Matoni in Split, we were pleasantly surprised by the superior veggie-friendly dishes available in these specialist restaurants. Rest assured that when you travel to Zagreb, you have the option of organic, local food served at a reasonable price in a cafe that’s able to accommodate most dietary requirements!

Zrno Bio Bistro is located at 20 Meduliceva ulitsa in Zagreb, Croatia.

Review: Konoba Matoni, Split Croatia

After our painstaking attempt to find a restaurant open for lunch in the city centre on our first day in Split, we decided not to leave things to chance on our second day. We spent the rest of the afternoon on our first day wandering the outskirts of town, along beaches and the stunning Adriatic Sea coastline, keeping an eye out for any restaurants that might be open for a meal on our second day. Luckily, we stumbled across Konoba Matoni near the Bacvice beach, and after perusing their menu decided to return for lunch on the next day.

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We arrived quite early at 12pm, when the restaurant was still empty. We were the first customers, and in fact, we were so early that the chef was still telling the waitress what to write up on the blackboard as the daily specials. It really wasn’t until about 1.30pm that the restaurant started to fill up with locals. Keep that in mind if you plan on visiting – if you want a busy bustling atmosphere, it’s best to dine a little bit later during the lunch period.

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The restaurant is quite cosy and homely. The subterranean space is lit up with warm lights throughout, and the first thing you see as you enter is their extensive wine collection. We didn’t sample any wine during our lunch, but it looked as though they had plenty to choose from – both local and foreign.

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We started off with some thick slices of freshly baked bread with a very hard crust but soft chewy insides. No butter or olive oil is offered with the bread, so it’s designed to be eaten by itself (it has enough flavour for it!), or to be dunked into soups and sauces.

Vegetable soup, 16 Croatian Kuna
Vegetable soup, 16 Croatian Kuna

One of the main appeals of Matoni was the inclusiveness of their menu – in many restaurants in Croatia, it’s hard to find a dish that doesn’t have either meat or seafood in it. It’s definitely a difficult place to visit for vegetarians or vegans! Matoni is different in that many of their dishes are vegetarian, and can be made vegan as well.

I chose this Vegetable and Barley Soup, one of the daily soups, as my starter. It’s an excellent example of how a simple hearty and flavourful soup can be made interesting by adding some last-minute texture – in this case, freshly popped popcorn on top for some extra crunch.

Croatian Cheeses (Broc Cheese, hard cheese made from cow's milk, smoked cheese in a marinade of olives, truffle sauce and capers), 76 Croatian Kuna
Croatian Cheeses (Broc Cheese, hard cheese made from cow’s milk, smoked cheese in a marinade of olives, truffle sauce and capers), 76 Croatian Kuna

When I think of cheese, I think of French cheeses mainly…but did you know that Croatian Cheeses are an up-and-coming industry as well? In particular, a local brand of sheep’s milk cheese actually won the 2014 World Cheese Championships – who would have known? We sampled three cheeses on the restaurant’s cheese platter – all hard cheeses (one aged more than the other), and all topped with a small ingredient designed to enhance the natural flavours of the cheese – capers, sesame seeds and pinenuts.

As delicious as the cheeses were, I think my pick on the platter was actually the fresh salad and the olives – the salad seemed like a simple coleslaw but turned out to have an extra fresh sweet green flavour from shredded snow peas, and the olives had been marinated to a melt-in-your-mouth perfection.

Cous Cous Clan (cous cous and beetroot salad, hemp seeds, cashews, mashed pumpkin, roasted mushrooms), 46 Croatian Kuna
Cous Cous Clan (cous cous and beetroot salad, hemp seeds, cashews, mashed pumpkin, roasted mushrooms), 46 Croatian Kuna

For my main, I chose another vegetarian/vegan option – the Cous Cous Clan, a beautifully presented dish that was almost too gorgeous to eat. Just look at those colours! The beetroot cous cous was really unique, with the beetroot providing a sweetness to the cooked cous cous that was only enhanced with the mashed pumpkin topping. The seeds on top (pepitas, sesame, sunflower and pinenuts) helped to add some much needed texture, while the plump juicy mushrooms added an earthiness to the dish to help cut through the sweeter cous cous and pumpkin. Now this is a dish worth recreating at home!

Smoked Duck Breast with Homemade Pasta in Truffle Sauce, 100 Croatian Kuna
Smoked Duck Breast with Homemade Pasta in Truffle Sauce, 100 Croatian Kuna

K ordered the Smoked Duck Breast with Homemade Pasta in Truffle Sauce, which really just had too much going on. The duck by itself had a strong gamey flavour, enhanced by the smoking process. The sauce on the duck was rich and salty, perfect for lighter meats. The pasta in truffle sauce was a delight, with thick noodles like Chinese noodles and the most aromatic truffle sauce ever.

All together though? The mishmash of flavours didn’t work, especially as the sauce on the duck started to mix on the plate with the truffle sauce. This dish would have been better served in a different way where the sauces couldn’t run together.

Raw brownie (plum and cinnamon sauce, pumpkin with vanilla sugar, raspberry sauce), 32 Croatian Kuna
Raw brownie (plum and cinnamon sauce, pumpkin with vanilla sugar, raspberry sauce), 32 Croatian Kuna

We finished off our meal with the Raw Brownie, a nutty cocoa and date concoction that had been lightened by the liberal dressing of berry sauce on top. I’m not going to claim that it was better than an actual brownie, because it wasn’t…but as a slightly healthier choice, I’d be more than happy to have a raw vegan brownie every so often as a change! It still had the nuttiness and richness that I like in my brownies, it just lacked that denser and more moist texture that comes with being able to use eggs in the mixture.

I have no hesitation in claiming that the vegetarian and vegan dishes at Konoba Matoni are the ones to choose, even if that’s not your usual choice on a menu. The flavours and textures work together extremely well in their vegetarian dishes, whereas the one meat dish we tried was much less coherent as a whole. With its location close to the local beach, you can definitely eat your fill at lunch before walking it off in the afternoon along the beautiful shoreline of the Adriatic Sea, where temperatures stay an even 16 degrees Celsius even in the depths of winter.

Konoba Matoni is located at 6 Prilaz Brace Kaliterna in Split, Croatia.

Review: Dr Falafel, Ohrid Macedonia

While we spent three nights in Ohrid in the south-west of Macedonia, we actually only ate out once, at Dr Falafel. We’d intended on eating out more often, but two things happened: 1) our Airbnb apartment had a decent kitchen – after not having a kitchen in Skopje, we wanted to cook some healthier meals at home; and 2) we met a lovely Macedonian lady one day who invited us home with her for a home-cooked lunch. More on that wonderful day in a real Macedonian home in my next blog entry!

For now though, a quick recap of our meal at Dr. Falafel, a quick-stop shop on Ohrid’s pedestrian street offering what must be the only wholly vegan-friendly menu in town. This is no mean feat when meat is a prominent part of the Macedonian diet and most restaurants offer only variations on grilled meats with any salads being a small, over-dressed side salad.

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The menu is quite small and specialised, offering only variations of falafel and hummus. One serve of falafel is 80 dinar ($2.05 AUD). One serve of hummus is 120 dinar ($3.07 AUD). Hummus and falafel together is 150 dinar ($3.84 AUD). Hummus, falafel and a drink is 180 dinar ($4.60 AUD). It’s not the type of menu that will break the bank! Each meal comes with a complimentary serve of fresh salad as well (so fresh that we saw the owner prepping the cabbage coleslaw as we sat eating our meal!), so K and I both ordered the meal deal.

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The homemade hummus has a strong garlicky flavour, and is served with a liberal amount of herbed and spiced olive oil – so much so that it pools in the middle of the hummus which makes it all the more tastier to dip bread into. The falafel is freshly fried right in front of our eyes, coming to our table as perfectly sized deep-fried balls of spiced crumbly chickpea goodness. K called these the best falafel he’s ever had – they were just the perfect consistency and held together really well compared to some of the dry falafels you may have had before.

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Each meal comes with a small side salad – nothing fancy, just shredded and lightly dressed cabbage, beetroot, carrot and lettuce. Keeping it simple, fresh and healthy, with the lightest of vinaigrette dressings.

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Dr Falafel also offers a home-baked loaf of soft white bread to go with your meal (one loaf between two people). I thought this was delicious – the bread was dense while still being quite spongy meaning that when you dipped it into the olive oil-infused hummus, it could really ‘grip’ the hummus for a great hummus to bread ratio.

This isn’t the place for you to visit if you want typical Macedonian grilled meats, or a big menu with lots of choices, or even a fancy extended meal. However, if you want delicious, cheap food that’s a little bit lighter and healthier than your usual ‘fast food’, Dr Falafel is one of the best choices you can make if you’re visiting Ohrid in Macedonia.

Dr Falafel is located at 8 7-Mi Noemvri (Beginning of Ohridska Carshija) in Ohrid, Macedonia.